I came into the city by myself this morning; I need to renew my Hungarian passport and we decided that it would be easier if I went on my own instead of all of us trying to amuse Beth for a full day. So at 4am I walked from our apartment in Sallyhill to Sundsvall Central and sat down in my first class extrawide seat with breakfast, table, bottomless coffee and internet. 3 1/2 hours later I stepped out into a different world. Stockholm is a city. I know that is a very obvious statement, but after spending the last month in Sundsvall I'd kind of forgotten what a really big city felt like, and it felt like Stockholm. To start it is beautiful, fullstop. And has people and cars everywhere, it also has a lot to do.
But first things first. Me and the consulate had a date. A date that took 3 hours and a broken fingerprint machine. I was starting to have a panic attack that I'd have to come back to Stockhom again just for this when a consular employee finally came out, looked at the machine, hit it and it worked. I waited in line for over an hour, I was the second person in line this morning, spent 5 minutes filling out the form, scanning my fingerprints and taking a horrible photo and then another 45 min waiting for my information to be verified by Budapest. I left the office just before 12pm. What kind of amazed me about the experience is all the other people who had expired passports (mine was still good) and then got annoyed that they'd have to produce more evidence of their Hungarian citizenship to renew. I thought everyone knew not to let their passports (utlevel) expire or face dire consequences?? Anyway.
I had about 5 hours before I had to get back into my comfy first class seat and ride back to Sundsvall so I decided to see as much of the city as I could in that time. I feel pretty poor these days having had no income in 3 months and Stockholm is not a good city for that, supposedly, but I found my free afternoon thoroughly enjoyable and busy. I took the walking tour route suggested by Lonely Planet Sweden and added in a couple of my own excursions, mostly for recommended restaurants, so I could tell Kevin about them.
My first trip was to find Cafe Saturnus, this cafe is on a side street, unassuming and looks amazing! This and my next restaurant choice were both recommended by Mathias Dahlgren, and in a country of expensive are reasonable and amazing. Cafe Saturnus was recommended for its kannebulle, which are huge and the tastiest I've had so far, but their lunches and other treats also look fantastic. I would have posted pictures, but I felt awkward asking strangers if I could take images of their food. Definitely will return for a full meal with Kevin.
Then back Iwent to Centrum, I was going to walk through the city park, but ended up in the middle of Stockholm Pride. So much fun and so much calmer than Toronto Pride. Picked up a keychain from the army recruiting booth, doubt they have that at Toronto Pride, and learnt about massage, banking investments and how everyone is a person. Lots of kids, lots of visitors and lots of pride. Then I crossed over to the home of Swedish parliament, walked right through the middle and then over the bridge and onto the Royal Palace. I was on a mission searching for Karl Phillip for my friend, but for some reason he wouldn't give me his phone number. Did get to check out his place, pretty nice, you know if you're into that sort of thing. The palace is located in the medieval part of the city right across from Sweden's oldest building, a church. I then got to see the Novel museum (huge for a geek like me), Sweden's stock exchange and their school of art and design, all in one square.
The medieval city is where I spent most of my afternoon, wandering around its narrow streets, looking in unique clothing, design and textile stores. This area of the city is much quieter and smaller feeling than the rest. I think if I were to live in Stockholm, this is where I would want to live. I took one trip outside this area to find Nystekt Strömming. This place took me awhile. I was looking for a restaurant, but it's more of a hot dog stand. A hot dog stand with fresh, local, Slow Movement approved Swedish food. Also fantastic. I had fried fish on bread with mustard and dill, and for 40 Kr. It is also the only place in Sweden that I found that is cash only, that I found kind of mind boggling as most other places penalize you for using cash. I have definitely found a new favorite restaurant.
I rounded out the afternoon on the Knight's island, looking at the most beautiful lake views in Stockholm, right after my camera died so sorry no pics, and then a quick jaunt through the shopping district. I have even more severe sticker shock right now. I'm glad that our jobs are in the small town of Sundsvall and I don't think I'd ever be able to buy anything in Stockholm, except of course fried street fish.As a side comment, before I came I found out that Stockholm is made up of a series of islands, so I expected it to feel well oceanic? like islands?, but the city is so well established overtop and the islands so close together that often you don't even realize your crossing a bridge, its not like the danube, or thames or in NYC. Crazy weird, especially as they have more than anyone else. Guess I can see why people chose it as home though, burn a bridge, easy to defend.
One more place I have to talk about, Kulturhuset Stockholm. Everytown has a culture house which has conference rooms, exhibits and the library. but the one in downtown stockholm is again amazing. It's 5 floors, was full of Pride, and the entire 4th floor is devoted to children, rum för barn. I want to bring Beth on the 4 hour train ride just to take her to the library. They had a handson exhibit having turned Mumni storybook into a play and discover ground. Grouped books by age, had an infant area with an entertainer, costume area and stage, art studio, and its all free. All the children, except the ones leaving, looked happy and the parents relaxed.
Now I'm going to sit back in my seat, enjoy my pickled herring and kaviar and savour the rest of this first class lifetyle.
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